The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel train arrives at a spray-painted station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.
It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city town centre.
"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce vintage from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and community plots across Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.
City Wine Gardens Across the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of the French capital's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens assist cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They preserve land from construction by creating permanent, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," explains the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, community, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he comments, as he cleans bruised and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Throughout the City
Additional participants of the group are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from France and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from approximately fifty vines. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the car windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established over 150 plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple dark berries from lines of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of making vintage."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Environments and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a fence on